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Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak rising at the altitude of 6,476 m is located at the Mahalangur section in the Himalaya of Nepal. For the non-experienced climbers, Mera Peak is a favorable option reason being it is an easy climb despite one interesting fact that it is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. One of the major attractions of Mera Peak climbing according to the climbers is the panoramic view of five eight- thousanders viz. Mt. Everest (8,848 m), Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m), Mt. Cho Oyu (8,201 m), Mt. Makalu (8,643 m) and Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586 m) from its summit. The peak was first ascent by a Jimmy Roberts and his Sherpa Sen Tenzing in 1953. Peak consists of three major summits: Mera South (6,065 m), Mera Central (6,461 m) and Mera North (6,476 m).

The journey begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla taking you through some remote villages in the mountains. This pristine territory of the Everest region is rich both naturally and culturally. The dense pine forests, fields of green and sparkling rivers running down the mountains all surrounded by white snowcapped mountains, the highest ones of the world. The old Sherpa culture adds to this lifetime experience. Their warm nature makes trekkers feel at home at every stop during the whole 2-3 weeks of expedition. Mera peak is said to be a straightforward climbing as the snow inclines less than 40 degrees and at the final fifty meters of the mountain requires skills like ice pick, ropes and crampons. For the new and unprofessional climbers, they will be provided with trainings on necessary skills and techniques under experts’ guidance prior to the trekking. It is better to take the whole trip in a slow and constant pace as it helps acclimatize the body. There are several routes to reach the peak. There is one where you can skip going past the Zatra La pass that saves you from steep climbing above the pass. Almost 50 per cent of the trekkers choose this option. Another popular Mera Peak climbing trail is through Zatra La pass as it is faster in comparison to other routes. After a flight to Lukla, the next day you cross Zatra La pass covering a total distance of 1,790 m in one day. Less time for acclimatization is a drawback because of the quick gain in altitude which is why this route happens to be the best choice for veteran climbers. The longest route is the trek of 23 days which unlike the rest heads directly to the southeast to Surke La from Lukla leading you to some remote and unspoiled villages and valleys to Panch Pokhari. Whichever trail you choose to follow, there will always be a professional guide to give you instructions and information to ensure trekkers’ safety and comfort.

Mountain climbing in Nepal is mostly seasonal. The three months of spring (March, April and May) and autumn (September, October and November) are considered as the best seasons for the climb. Some expert climbers think winter to be their favorite season as there will be fewer crowds.

Trip Highlights of Mera peak climbing

Panoramic views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Chamlang, Baruntse, Melungtse, Amadablam, Thamserku, Pumori, Tower Peak, Kusum Kanggru, Kanchanjunga from summit. Different Community with majority of Sherpa, Tamang, Chhetri, Brahamn, Newar. Great Himalayan Landscape.

Day 01: Arrival and Transfer to the hotel.

Day 02: Rest and arrangement day.

Day 03:Kathmandu-Lulka-Puyan. 2,820 m.

Day 04:Puyan- Pangum. 3,100m.

Day 05:Pangum -Ningsow. 3,100m.

Day 06:Ningsow -Chhetra Thanga. 3,300m.

Day 07:Chhetra Thanga -Kothe (Mosom Kharka) 3,691m.

Day 08:Kothe (Mosom Kharka) -Thangnak. 4,200m.

Day 09:Thangnak.

Day 10:Thangnak - Khare. 4,900m

Day 11:Khare -Mera La (5,415m) and back to Khare.

Day 12:Khare -Mera La -Climb To High Camp (5,800m) - Down to Base Camp.

Day 13:Base Camp- High Camp. (5,800m)

Day 14:Summit Day (6,461m) and back to khare

Day 15 / 16:Khare  to Lukla.

Day 17:Fly to Kathmandu

Day 01: Arrival and Transfer to the hotel.

We will pick up from the airport and transfer  to the hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 2: Rest and arrangement day.

This day is for the arrangement day, such as check equipment and documents for the climbing with introducing your guide / porter staff. As an option we can also do the Kathmandu sightseeing.

Day 03:Kathmandu-Lulka-Puyan. 2,820 m.

An early morning stunning flight to the gateway to the region of the legendary Sherpas. We descend steeply towards the Dudh Koshi (the torrent that thunders from the flanks of Everest), climb steeply up from the far side of the valley to where there are spectacular views both upwards to Cho Oyu and down into the plummeting canyon to the river below. continue through rhododendron forest that in the pre-monsoon is awash with reds and pinks. The huge Magnolia trees add their large white flowers to the canvas as we enjoy a level walk to our night stop in Puyan.

Day 04:Puyan- Pangum. 3,100m.

We set off on a gentle 1.5 hour climb to the Khari La pass (2,860m), with today destination already visible in the distance as we pass through dense forest with occasional glimpses of the white peaks emerging above the clouds. A gradual hour-long descent to lunch is followed by a steady climb for 2 ½ hours to Pangum.

Day 05:Pangum -Ningsow. 3,100m.

A short climb brings us to the Pangum La (3,010m) where we cross over into the fabled, awesome and empty Inkhu Valley and we pass through the village of Bhusme (approx. 1hr on), which is the last permanent habitation we shall see. It is another 3 hour walk to our night stop at Ningsow.

Day 06:Ningsow -Chhetra Thanga. 3,300m.

climbing and descending the steep and rugged spurs that line the Inkhu Khola valley; the glimpses through the dense forest of the torrent below us are truly dramatic. This is the Himalayan river torrent of steepest descent cutting a jagged incision through this ancient glacial valley while the trail encounters landslides as it clings to the V-shaped valleys precipitous western edge. The finale to the raw, natural feel of todays trek is our camp in the only suitable location.

Day 07:Chhetra Thanga -Kothe (Mosom Kharka) 3,691m.

A short but steep 500m climb after breakfast offers interesting views; South to the rolling foothills of a few days before, North to Mera Peak itself and our first sight of its dramatic southwest face. The forest is untouched, beautiful, tall pine and moss, lichen and rhododendron creating a peaceful soulful feel during todays walk as we descend to the upper Inkhu Khola and arrive at a few huts and the summer yak pastures that is Kothe.

Day 08:Kothe (Mosom Kharka) -Thangnak. 4,200m.

The scenery is taking on a very different character now - Peak 43 sits at the head of the valley and to our right in the east and in morning shadow is the dark west face of Mera. At lunch, with Mera as a backdrop, the reality of it all arrives like a doubtful guest - one you are not sure you should have invited! This guest then accompanies us into camp and will be with us for the next seven days.

Day 09: Thangnak.

This will be our acclimatisation schedules; using the day to hike to near-by glaciers up to 5,000m.

Day 10:Thangnak - Khare. 4,900m.

Trail to Khare takes us eastwards across the moraine of the Dig Glacier. Though the climb up the moraine is not steep, you will feel the effects of the altitude and it will be a couple hours before we reach open pasture at Dig Kharka. There the trail levels out before crossing a stream and climbing for another hour to Khare. We have trekked in a northerly arc and are now rewarded by stunning views of the north face of Mera.

Day 11:Khare -Mera La (5,415m) and back to Khare.

A second day for acclimatisation. Here we use the moraine and scree slopes of the base of the Mera Glacier to familiarize ourselves with high altitude gear, with safety practices, with climbing techniques. And so we climb - towards the Mera La, our route winding its way between the crevasses on the glacier’s lower eastern flank. After half an hour, the gradient eases and we emerge onto the wide plateau that leads up to the Pass. A further hour’s climbing and we see the prayer flags marking our arrival at the Mera La (5,415m). In the afternoon, we descend to Khare. altitude 4,900m. Acclimatization and Kit familiarization

Day 12:Khare -Mera La -Climb To High Camp (5,800m) 

Down to Base Camp. Other expeditions are known to opt to go straight to High Camp from Khare and then attempt the summit the following day. This is a risk we don’t take, preferring instead further acclimatization which can, often does, make the critical difference. So we climb with high altitude support staff who establish a Base Camp at 5,100m near the foot of the glacier, The views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and Kanchanjunga are what we came here to see - stunning! Today however we then descend to Base Camp for what anyway is our first night above 5,000m

Day 13:Base Camp- High Camp.(5,800m)

Following the now familiar route back up the glacier we should find todays climb easier than yesterday. Our team consists now of the summit party supported by a cook plus any others needed to porter but who will then descend to wait at Khare for our return. Arriving at High Camp mid-afternoon, we spend the rest of the day resting and eating in preparation for a pre-dawn start.

Day 14:Summit Day (6,461m) then descend to Khare.

Emerging from tents around 2 a.m. for the arduous climb to the summit. Navigating up a snow covered mountain under Himalayan star light is a very unworldly feeling. Sunrise means gaining the first of the false summits and a few hours later our goal will be close, with the final test a number of crevasses that line our trail before the gradient steepens dramatically. We rope up and painstakingly ascend the final steep hurdle to the summit of Mera (6,461m). The panorama of peaks that greets us from the summit will blow all notions of tiredness from our limbs. The view from here has to be one of the finest in the Himalaya,down the Mera Glacier, past High Camp and back down to Khare. It’s been grueling but topped by an incredible sense of utter elation, achievement and fulfillment.

Day 15-16:Khare - Lukla.

We retrace the route back to Lukla.,

Day 17:Fly to Kathmandu.

Flight back to Kathmandu (approx 45 minutes) and transfer to our hotel.

Trip Cost US$ 2125 Per person
Cost Includes:
  • Two night Deluxe hotel in Kathmandu on B/B
  • Flight from Kathmandu- Lukla- Kathmandu for the member and crews.
  • Climbing peak permit and one climbing guide (Sherpa)
  • National Park entrance permit
  • 2 Airport transfers
  • All Meals during the trek and camping.
  • Accommodation in lodge during the trek, basic camping arrangement during climbing.
  • Porters to carry member baggage 15 to 18 kg per person.
  • Accident insurance for staffs.
  • A Trekking and climbing map
  • Emergency rescue arrangement if incase , pay by your travel insurance.
  • Sleeping ,bag down jackets if you do not have your own, to be returned after the trip.
  • medical kit box with normal medicine.
Cost Excludes:
  • Personal clothing.
  • Personal accident insurance, emergency evacuation cost, oxygen, medical box.
  • Alcoholic beverage, laundry and tips.
  • Hotel accommodation and sightseeing tour in Kathmandu (available as per your choice)

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Trip Facts

  • Trekking Destination: 15 days
  • Group Size: 1+
  • Minimum altitude:
  • Season: Feb to May- Sept to NoV
  • Grade Info: Strenuous
  • Transportation: Aeroplane
  • Total Days: 15 days
  • Walking Hour: Apprx 5-6 hrs/day

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